There are a lot of beer drinkers in Colorado, but none has quite as much expertise as Patrick Combs — and now, he has the credentials to prove it.
In November, Combs, who is the “director of liquids” at Stem Ciders, became a master cicerone, the highest level of certification a beer professional can achieve, and a distinction that is similar to a master sommelier for wine. He’s now one of just 28 master cicerones in the world.
Founded in early 2008, the Cicerone Certification Program includes four increasingly difficult levels, each involving tough tests: certified beer server, certified cicerone, advanced cicerone and master cicerone. Roughly 150,000 people are certified beer servers and more than 4,600 are certified cicerones, while fewer than 200 individuals are advanced cicerones.
To get to the final level, candidates must have an “encyclopedic knowledge” of every aspect of beer, from styles, flavors and ingredients to brewing and serving processes, and from how to troubleshoot draft systems to properly pairing beer with food.
For Combs, it was a long time coming.
Now 33, Combs began his journey in 2011 as he was finishing up his undergraduate studies at Oklahoma State University and working part-time as a teaching assistant at Oklahoma State University. It’s when he took a sip of a beer that ultimately changed the trajectory of his life.
That beer? Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Combs describes the experience as a “eureka moment.”
“It was like an entire world had been revealed to me,” he said. “The flavor of the hop profile was intricate and layered. The malty sweetness and perceived bitterness were perfectly balanced. The finish was smooth with a touch of grapefruit and pine.”
Not that he would have described the beer with such detail back in 2011. Up to that point, Combs had mostly steered clear of beer after a few bad experiences. With hindsight, he understands why. At the time, his local liquor stores mainly stocked mass-market lagers and wine coolers, plus a few imports. They stored nearly everything on shelves at room temperature, which Combs said he now realizes contributed to the stale, flat flavors he disliked.
Looking back, Sierra Nevada was probably the first time he’d tasted fresh beer, period. The moment helped him realize he wanted to pursue a career in the industry, he said.
Combs took up homebrewing and, perhaps more importantly, he began studying the art, history and science of brewing. That passion led him to Avery Brewing in Boulder, where he was hired as a sensory scientist. In that role, he honed his expertise of “off-flavors,” an umbrella term that encompasses any flavor that isn’t supposed to be part of the final product. Brewery staffers are constantly on the lookout for compounds or traits that might change a beer’s intended flavors or aromas. When they find them, they adjust their processes and recipes accordingly.
“I had the opportunity to sample thousands of beers spiked with off-flavors and elevate my palate to a level beyond what I thought was capable,” Combs said about his experience at Avery.
From there, he moved on to roles at Cerebral Brewing in Denver and WeldWerks Brewing in Greeley before landing at Stem in 2021. Founded in 2013, Stem owns a taproom on Blake Street in Denver; a full-service restaurant and production facility, called Acreage, in Lafayette; and Ghost Box Pizza, also in Lafayette. In addition, Stem brews Howdy Beer, a brand of light lagers.
As he advanced in his career, he also achieved the first three levels of cicerone certification.
Combs knew he eventually wanted to try for the fourth and highest certification. But he also predicted it would be a huge challenge. And it was: Even after more than two years of intensive studying, he failed his first master cicerone exam in November 2019.
But Combs wasn’t deterred. He doubled down on his preparation, spending most of his free time researching styles, ingredients, tasting notes, food pairings, the brewing process and history. He sipped and compared hundreds of beers so he could describe their subtle stylistic differences. In the months leading up to the test, his fridge held between 60 and 70 different beers.
Combs also hosted elaborate dinner parties at his house — which he shares with his wife, Megan, and their young daughter, Charlotte — so he could practice pairing beer with food. One evening in July, for instance, he treated guests to a six-course menu centered around seared duck breast with miso brown butter caramel, roasted oyster mushroom clusters, fried elephant garlic and grits. He paired the dish with a Belgian dark strong ale and a Flanders red ale.
“I’d attempt a safe pairing and an ambitious one,” he said. “The pairings weren’t always successful, but they were always educational.”
Finally, in October 2023, he tried again. He and his family flew to Kansas City, where he spent two days answering questions during a series of grueling oral and written exams. Then, he waited.
Combs didn’t expect to pass and had already prepared his response for when people asked about the outcome: “Oh, no. Not this year…”
So, when he got the good news in mid-November, he was ecstatic. Combs, along with five other individuals, earned the master cicerone title this year.
“I was in complete shock and disbelief,” he said. “Even now, it feels completely surreal.”
Combs is still trying to figure out what the title means for him, both personally and professionally. But for now, he’s reveling in the fact that he set a lofty goal — and actually accomplished it.
And, despite the many hours of studying, he’s still just as fascinated by beer and brewing as he ever was. “A well-made beer is truly the perfect blend of art and science,” he said.
