When I cogitate on the methods and outcome of home composting, I often think of the title of the classic compost book, “Let it Rot” by Stu Campbell. The book was first published in 1975 (the same year the movie “Jaws” was released).
There are many compost books and online sources that cover how and what to compost. Compost is made up of the carbon-rich “browns” and nitrogen-rich “greens” that combine and turn into the ultimate finished soil stage — often called “black gold” by gardeners.
I compost for one reason: It doesn’t make sense not to compost. After all, nature set a pretty good example by creating soil over the eons by decomposing all sorts of plant and animal matter. Plus, it is very convenient and satisfying to toss easily accessible stuff from around the landscape into a pile or souped-up compost system, things such as mowed grass clippings, garden trimmings, leaves and indoor food scraps that otherwise just stink up the house.
Who can compost
There are stats that show composting reduces yard waste going to landfills by anywhere between 50 and 75 percent. I like that, too.
The end goal of composting is to incorporate the soil you made into areas of your garden and landscape that need some help with soil quality, fertility and plant health — the essential gardening hat trick.
Anyone can join in the compost fun. It’s almost free and only takes as much time to manage as you’d like to put in. Some people turn the pile regularly, which helps it break down quicker. Others make a compost pile and walk away. The saying that “compost happens” simply means that, just like in nature, organic matter left on its own will eventually break down to become soil with or without our help.
Jim Borland is a Denver area native plant expert and co-host of the weekly call-in radio program, “The Garden Wise Show,” on 95.3-FM/810-AM, which has been on-air for 29 years. He has been composting since he was a youth growing up in Pennsylvania. He enjoyed raking leaves into large piles. In no time, “the leaves turned into soil that his dad used in the vegetable garden and where his mother loved to grow sedums, monarda and carnations in between rocks she thoughtfully placed around the yard.”
At their West Denver home, Jim and his wife, Dorothy, built a very large two-bin compost system that has stood the test of time. They used stacked railroad ties, which were commonly used years ago. Today, rot-resistant wood, cement blocks, wire fencing, barrels, three-bin systems, dug holes and piles are commonly used.
In one bin, the Borlands collect compostable material, tossing spent plant matter from their landscape and all food scraps (except ham bones). Jim doesn’t follow the rules stipulating that fat and dairy can’t go into the pile. “Critters may come and go but aren’t a bother.” Mice steer clear with the help of their ever-on-duty cat.
They fill bin No. 2 with the materials from bin one and make layers as material is added. Water is applied between layers until the pile reaches 6 feet or so. Jim turns the contents of bin two “as often as his body will allow.”
Decomposition will generate heat, so the compost will naturally rise in temperature. Jim uses a compost thermometer so he knows the pile is working well and cooking at 140 degrees. The pile continues to compost even in the winter, as observed by the steam cloud when it is turned. In time, the pile condenses, losing about a third of its original size. Once it is finished composting in six to nine months, Jim screens the soil to remove any remaining larger bits and uses it all through the vegetable garden and as part of his own special soil blend in seed starting and potting plants.
Jim says that “failing at home composting has to do with the size of the pile; anything smaller than three feet wide in any direction won’t make compost. People can get discouraged and just not compost anymore if they aren’t getting results.”
Home composting basics
A compost system, bin, container, etc., should be at least 3 feet wide by 3 feet long by 3 feet high or larger. For safety, it is best to fence the area if digging a hole. Keep it simple: Remember all that is needed is time, browns, greens, water and air. Place it where it will get some sun for warming, has drainage, and is easily accessible for tossing in materials.
Planning your own compost framing system can be an excellent, inexpensive DIY project during the off-season. Sketch it out and be ready to put it together in early spring or sooner.
Browns include dry leaves; coffee filters; dried or dead (disease-free) foliage; non-shiny egg cartons; woody branches and twigs less than 1/4 inch in diameter; chopped, weed-free straw; and toilet and paper towel rolls. Small amounts of sawdust and pine needles are OK. Shredded newspaper and cardboard (not shiny) can be added or placed in recycle bins.
Greens include chemical-free grass clippings (or leave on the lawn when mowing); kitchen scraps like eggshells; vegetable greens; fruit peels and cores (OK with seeds); coffee grounds; human or pet hair; small amounts of manure from herbivore-eating animals only (chickens, cow, sheep and rabbits); fresh and spent cut foliage from plants and vegetation; and weeds (if seeds are removed).
Avoid: Plants that are treated with pesticides/herbicides; resinous cuttings from junipers, spruce and pine; wood ashes; bones; meat; dairy or fat (unless you follow Jim and can deal with possible critter visits). Use high-tannin leaves (oak, cottonwood) in small amounts. No dog or cat feces or cat litter. Avoid dryer lint and produce stickers.
Mix: Layer or mix the materials until it is at least 3 feet high or more. Ideally, you want equal amounts of “brown” and “green” but don’t sweat the exact proportions. Water as you mix to moisten all the materials. Keep the pile as wet as a wrung-out sponge and turn often. It will compress quickly. You can add more materials for a short time, then stop and let it finish composting. Kitchen scraps can be added to the middle of the pile since they break down quickly.
Tips: Materials cut, chipped or chopped into smaller pieces compost better than large, chunky items. Jim uses a chipper/shredder machine for his compost. Layers of the same type can compress and get matted or become a solid, soggy mass. Try to prevent this by initially mixing up different materials. It can smell if it is too wet or if it has too many “greens,” so if that happens add some “browns.” If using a hole or above-ground pile, cover with a tarp to avoid drying out. If the pile does not heat up, it might be too dry. Turn it and add water to layers as you go. Keep animals away by burying any food scraps.
Time frame
If turned regularly and kept moist, finished compost can be ready in two to four months or so during the summer. If left mostly unattended, it might take a year or longer. The temperature in piles can range between 120 and 150 degrees. Composting slows down in cooler weather.
The resulting soil amount can be about half the size you started with. A few visible bits or pieces are OK; you can toss them back into the next pile. The newbie soil will smell earthy and wonderful, and be crumbly and dark brown in color.
Then you can step back and be proud that you’ve successfully made your own high-quality soil. Use it anywhere for soil preparation and actively growing plants. (Share with others if you ever have leftovers.)
Resources
Composting Yard Waste: https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/composting-yard-waste-7-212/
Denver Urban Gardens: https://dug.org/composting-basics/
City of Denver Composting: https://denvergov.org/Government/Agencies-Departments-Offices/Agencies-Departments-Offices-Directory/Recycle-Compost-Trash/Compost/Additional-Compost-Programs
Betty Cahill speaks and writes about gardening in the Rocky Mountain Region. Visit her site at http://gardenpunchlist.blogspot.com/ for even more gardening tips.
