When Dana Rodriguez invited Governor Jared Polis to the opening of her new restaurant, she said he replied with a text that read, “Loca, now I know why they call you ‘Loca.’ You don’t have enough of Casa Bonita that you want to open another restaurant?”
Rodriguez, the culinary director of the famous Casa Bonita, is opening Carne, a steakhouse at 2601 Larimer St. in Denver’s River North Art District on July 3. Last week, she wore her chef Loca nickname with beaming pride during a preview of the restaurant as she walked around hand-in-hand with her new beau and business partner, Scott Shoemaker, who oversaw the renovations at Casa Bonita and helped her design the sleek, 1970s-style steakhouse.
Carne was inspired by her culinary travels and experiences in kitchens specializing in cuisines from around the world over the last 20 years. Guests can take a trip to France with duck confit or make a stop in Italy with veal osso bucco. The eclectic menu boasts Argentinian steak, Mexican ribs with a charcoal rub, Brazillia picanha steak and Colorado lamb.
“This is one of the only steakhouses in RiNo, let alone women-owned, so I wanted it to be fun, not like a traditional, stuffy setting,” Rodriguez said. “You can come here after work in a t-shirt and shorts, and get a full meal under $200.”
The opening comes just two months after Rodriguez closedCantina Loca, her first solo project, due to low traffic. “The stress to keep up a restaurant is a lot, but you also need to be smart enough to make the decision when you know it’s not sustainable,” she said. She’s also no longer a part of Doña Loca, the mezcal brand she co-founded in 2021 and which was featured at Cantina Loca. Rodriguez explained that she didn’t have enough time to travel for the tastings and wanted to focus on her other restaurants, Work & Class and Super Mega Bien.
The multi-James Beard-nominated chef didn’t let the closure bring her down, though. “They put you down, but you’re not dead,” she said. “You can have opportunities to come back, do new things and keep providing for your employees.”
That’s why she says that when she spotted an empty corner space just down the block from Work & Class where Il Posto previously operated for 17 years, “I knew everything was supposed to happen for a reason.”
Carne’s menu is playful with a section for “The Normies,” which includes a traditional 6-oz. filet ($33) or 10-oz. New York strip ($45). Then there’s “The Ballers,” for those looking for a $50 sirloin wagyu or $175 tomahawk steak. Sides, like the creamy au Gratin green chili cheese potatoes or a whole head of spicy roasted cauliflower, all cost $11.
And the cocktail program, created by Run For The Roses founder Steve Waters, plays with classic libations from regions around the world, like a Peruvian pisco sour, or a twist on a French sidecar. There’s also a tableside martini cart for a whole table to enjoy shaken gin or vodka to order, and a wall of wines that guests are encouraged to peruse for their selection of the night.
“There are a lot of places closing and opening, and I wanted to provide something that is easy and affordable enough for guests to come here three or four times a week,” Rodriguez said. “You don’t have to order the tomahawk, you can’t get the chicken one day and the ribs the next, but it’s flavorful enough that you keep coming back for more.”
The decor resembles an upscale version of Eric Foreman’s basement in “That 70’s Show” with old-school albums, TVs, beaded curtains, murals and funky green and orange tones throughout.
The 60-seat steakhouse is open for happy hour and dinner on Wednesday and Thursday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. and until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. And they’re serving brunch on Sunday mornings. There’s also an upstairs loft with a separate bar and small bites menu for late-night options, plus a 55-seat patio with a mobile grill and fireside lounge.
Rodriguez was able to bring some of her servers, managers and hosts from Cantina Loca after the closure, a key factor for why she wanted to open a new spot.
“I want to create a culture and treat my employees like family,” she said. “I have one woman who’s been getting up at 5 a.m. and making the tortillas for Work & Class for the last 11 years, who stuck by me during COVID. I want to leave a legacy and change the hospitality industry for the better. Even if it’s just a little bit, that’s my goal. That’s why I keep creating stuff like this.”
Originally Published: July 2, 2024 at 6:00 a.m.
