North Fork ranchers move their stock between pastures in early summer, so don’t be surprised if cowboys are leading cattle drives the very same weekend local winemakers are kicking off their 2024 season with North Fork Uncorked, a series of viticultural events held June 8 to 9.
Colorado’s North Fork is a federally designated American Viticultural Area (the West Elks AVA) fed by a tributary of the Gunnison River. Cattle ranches, organic orchards and vineyards do equally well in the area’s fertile valley, where a sophisticated art scene also thrives. In an era marked by political divisions, it’s this unexpected melding of seemingly incongruous offerings that makes the region so intriguing.
Colorado’s North Fork Valley consists of three main towns — Crawford, Hotchkiss and Paonia — that form a triangle on the Western Slope. The largest town, Paonia, is known locally as “the Boulder of the West,” explains Nathan Sponseller, a spokesperson for the North Fork Chamber of Commerce and the owner of the Stone House Inn in Crawford.
“Everyone says the North Fork is a hidden gem. Um, no — we’re just a gem,” says Steve Steese, who co-owners a boutique Hotchkiss winery, The Storm Cellar, with his wife Jayme Henderson.
Colorado’s climate, elevation and soil produce one-of-a-kind grapes, and wine enthusiasts are starting to notice as they seek out novel wine-tasting experiences. Many area wineries — The Storm Cellar included — incorporate all elements of winemaking into the customer experience, from growing and harvesting to processing, aging, production — and tasting, of course.
Paonia houses five of the area’s 13 wineries, making the eclectic town a good home base for a summer getaway.Take note: North Fork wineries are open seasonally, Memorial Day through October or November, and most owners take appointments outside posted operating hours. The hours listed below offer guidelines, but it is always best to call first.
Friday night
On your way into town, pull into Stone Cottage Cellars, 41716 Reds Road, open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. It’s the first winery after McClure Pass, and offers an idyllic setting for a post-drive charcuterie plate and glass of wine — maybe the barrel fermented Chardonnay — on a patio overlooking snow-capped peaks of the West Elk Mountains. If you plan far enough in advance, you might snag the vineyard-winery’s hand-built, two-bedroom cottage, available on Airbnb, conveniently located between the vineyard and a large garden where guests are more than welcome to pick their own salad for dinner.
In downtown Paonia, there’s also the 118-year-old Bross Hotel Bed & Breakfast, 312 Onarga Ave. Delta County’s oldest inn offers 10 rooms tucked away on a tree-lined street. On a quiet night, in a sleepy town, hotel guests can fall into a Zen-like state while seated in the bright-white rocking chairs on the hotel’s front porch.
Saturday
Owners Mike and Suzanne serve scratch-made breakfast at the Bross. We won’t judge you if you also grab a tart cherry cornmeal scone and artisanal cheese from Paonia Bread Works, 530 Grand Ave., before taking a morning stroll down Paonia’s main street (i.e. Grand Avenue). You’ll definitely want to budget time between tastings to check out the galleries, studios and artsy shops laid out along the town’s designated creative district.
When you’re ready for first sips, drive a mile north of town to reach Qutori Wines, 40823 Hwy. 133, open Thursday through Sunday, noon to 8 p.m. The 25-year-old pinot noir vineyard has a winery with a spacious patio overlooking Mount Lamborn. Meals at the on-site café are Mediterranean-inspired (think: local bison meatballs on homemade pasta and tri-tip steak salad).
From here, continue another 0.8 miles to Black Bridge Winery, 15836 Black Bridge Road, open daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. This winery’s named for the centuries-old bridge you cross to reach it, and the owners are especially proud of their award-winning pinot noir grapes – though they also produce chardonnay, Riesling, rosé and a newer sour cherry wine.
I bet you haven’t been on many wagon tasting tours. The Black Bridge team takes guests through five vineyards on a vintage tractor, offering educational tidbits and samples throughout the excursion. Another point of distinction is Black Bridge’s charming farm stand, stocked with balsamic vinegar, EVOOs and plenty of jams and jellies. Down by the river, don’t miss a sizable you-pick-it orchard with sweet cherries, peaches, pears, apples and pumpkins.
There are plenty of places to recharge between tastings, but this writer’s partial to the sandwiches and salads at Sweetgrass Paonia, 120 Grand Ave., open Wednesday through Sunday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Since wine and cheese pair well, you might nibble on the small-batch, handcrafted cheese at Western Culture Farmstead, 39883 Mathews Lane, open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Free goat snuggles included with every visit!)
Don’t miss Alfred Eames Cellars, 11931 4050 Road, open by appointment only. The winery’s full-bodied 2019 Carmena nabbed a coveted spot in the Governor’s Cup Collection, denoting Colorado’s best wines, as determined by a 15-judge panel. In addition to tours, owner Alfred Eames and his team host seasonal brunches and dinners, but most people visit to see the jaw-dropping wine cellar — a vaulted cave inspired by a trip to Spain that Eames designed and built with his son.
Can you handle one more stop? Back in Paonia, the tasting room at 5680’ Vineyards, 14652 Peony Lane, open Friday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., is the right place to top off the day with a glass of pinot noir.
Sunday
If you have extra time before departing, drive 4 miles west, toward Hotchkiss, for an incredibly scenic white wine and rosé tasting at The Storm Cellar, 14139 Runzel Gulch Road, open Thursday through Sunday, noon to 7 p.m. You’ll need lunch to fuel the trek home.
Try Big B’s Delicious Orchards, 39126 Hwy. 133, open daily, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., with a café, farm stand and — oh, what the heck — hard cider samples for whoever isn’t driving. There’s overnight camping in the you-pick-it orchard for anyone who needs one more night in paradise.
Optional extension
Outdoors enthusiasts will wish they’d booked a longer trip. The area has enough hiking and biking to keep tourists busy for weeks. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park’s less-traveled North Rim is only 25 miles away, and there’s also Paonia State Park with fields of wildflowers growing amid aspen forests.
In addition to Gold Medal fishing on the North Fork, visitors who’d like to get on the water can try stand-up paddleboarding or guided raft trips through outfitters based in Crawford and Hotchkiss. Whatever you do, don’t leave town without filling your farmers market bag to the brim. The North Fork Valley has one of the highest concentrations of organic growers, and every town has a market.
