“Greenville, South Carolina? But why?”
That was the most common response I heard — especially from friends from the South — when I shared that I’d be heading to Greenville for nearly a week earlier this summer. When I explained that I was visiting to attend a work conference, they looked slightly less puzzled, but still skeptical.
And, I’ll admit, I was skeptical, too. I didn’t really know what to expect from this town of 70,000 residents situated roughly 30 miles from the North Carolina border. I’m a mountain girl who typically prefers to have her feet planted firmly in the West.And the South wasn’t very high on my travel bucket list.
But when I arrived and began exploring Greenville, I was delighted to find a vibrant, midsized town with a burgeoning food scene and an outdoorsy bent — it reminded me of the cities along Colorado’s Front Range.
I didn’t expect to find much diversity, but I saw people from all walks of life lining up at a Turkish food festival one day and participating in Bollywood-inspired Indian dance lessons in the street the next. The city’s first poet laureate is a Black woman, Glenis Redmond, who writes and speaks passionately about racism, discrimination and social justice.
I was also impressed when I learned the story of how civic leaders rallied to transform Greenville from a rundown old mill town to a thriving community that people are now flocking to in droves. Many people I met were recent transplants who’d moved to Greenville for its mild weather, walkability, affordability and small-town feel (with big-city amenities). And, after spending some time there, I understand why.
While I won’t be relocating, I’d visit again in a heartbeat — and I’ve recommended Greenville to well-traveled friends and family looking for a novel domestic destination. United offers nonstop flights to Greenville from Denver International Airport and, once you arrive, you don’t need a car to get around.
Here’s how to plan a trip to Greenville — including where to play, where to eat and where to stay, according to a Coloradan.
Where to play
As soon as you arrive in Greenville, make a beeline for the Swamp Rabbit Trail, a 28-mile network of multi-use paths in the heart of town. The main route follows alongside the Reedy River and provides the perfect introduction to the city, whether you explore on foot or on two wheels. Greenville does have a BCycle bike-share system, but I recommend renting a cruiser or an e-bike for the day from Reedy Rides. (The shop also offers bike tours, if you’d rather explore the city with a guide.)
You really can’t go wrong no matter which direction you ride on the Swamp Rabbit Trail. Heading east from downtown takes you through Falls Park on the Reedy, home to Reedy River Falls. For decades, these gorgeous waterfalls were obscured by a multi-lane highway. But in the early 2000s, the city tore it down and replaced it with the Liberty Bridge, a beautiful, suspended pedestrian bridge designed by architect Miguel Rosales. Today, the curvilinear structure doubles as a viewing platform for the waterfalls (and serves as the perfect spot to take a selfie).
As you pedal east, stop and check out the ruins of old textile mills and admire the “Medusa Tree,” a majestic old beech with a tangle of exposed roots. Keep going and you’ll eventually reach Cleveland Park, a massive, 122-acre retreat created in 1922 that’s home to the Greenville Zoo, a Vietnam veterans memorial and other features.
If you head west from downtown instead, you’ll ride through Unity Park, an absolutely stunning 60-acre park that opened two years ago with grassy knolls, wetlands, event space, playgrounds and a colorful, Instagram-worthy sign. Just beyond the park, you’ll encounter a food hall called The Commons, which has a beer garden-style outdoor space overlooking the trail (a great spot for people-watching). On the opposite side of the river, Southernside Brewing Co. also has a huge, shady outdoor area with yard games.
If you’re not quite ready to stop, keep pedaling until you reach Swamp Rabbit Cafe & Grocery, a mission-driven food hub that partners with more than 300 local farmers and purveyors. Continue on to Furman University, a private school with a lush green campus (including a small lake and a picturesque bell tower).
For a souvenir or your next page-turner, visit M. Judson Booksellers. This independent, women-run bookstore is located inside Greenville’s historic downtown courthouse, a Beaux Arts stunner built in 1918. It’s named after Mary Camilla Judson, who championed women’s education in Greenville during the 19th century.
Venture a few miles beyond downtown and spend a morning exploring the Village of West Greenville, an up-and-coming, artsy neighborhood with galleries, boutiques and eateries. Grab breakfast at Unlocked Coffee Roasters, but be sure to get there early so you can order their pandebono, a beloved Colombian cheese bread that’s baked fresh daily and tends to sell out. Stroll through the rotating exhibition at the Greenville Center for Creative Arts (located in an old textile mill), then shop for gifts and paper goods at Page & Post.
During the summer, walk to Fluor Field to catch a Minor League Baseball game featuring the Greenville Drive, the High-A affiliate of the Boston Red Sox (and, once you arrive, note the stadium’s similarity to Fenway Park). On your way, pop into Gather GVL for a drink and a snack. This colorful outdoor food hall is made of shipping containers and has a fun, family-friendly vibe.
Where to eat and drink
Greenville’s food scene is heating up — and the world is starting to take notice. In 2022, Food & Wine magazine named it one of America’s next great food cities, and several Greenville chefs have earned recent James Beard nods. I can attest: Food was a major (and delicious) theme of my recent visit.
Since flying home, I haven’t stopped talking about the dinner I had at Keipi, which specializes in the cuisine of Georgia, the former Soviet country nestled between Armenia, Russia, Azerbaijan and Turkey. On certain nights, the nonprofit restaurant hosts community keipis, a traditional Georgian banquet dinner designed to bring people together.
When you book a seat at a keipi, you’ll sit at a long table full of strangers for a five-course meal with plenty of Georgian wine. As you work your way through Georgian cheese bread (khachapuri) and soup dumplings (Kinkhali), a toastmaster — called a tamada — will lead the group through a series of toasts. These aren’t your average raise-a-glass-and-say-cheers toasts but, rather, invitations to reflect on life, death, love, grief and joy.
During my keipi, we revealed our happiest childhood memories, honored deceased loved ones and discussed our life’s biggest passions. You don’t have to share your own story — you can simply listen. But it’s cathartic and refreshing to jump past the small talk and connect with others on such a deep level. I laughed, I wept, I contemplated the meaning of life.
For a less emotional but equally yummy experience, head to CAMP Modern American Eatery, a trendy New American restaurant in a recently revitalized area of downtown called Camperdown Plaza. Sit at the chef’s counter so you can watch the talented team prepare hearty, internationally-inspired dishes like goat cheese gnudi (spheres of deep-fried goat cheese served with figs, green apples and pistachios in a brown butter sauce), steak pinchos (marinated hanger steak served on a skewer with garlic aioli and crispy potatoes) and gambas (shrimp served in a bright, citrusy butter sauce). Grab drinks before or after at the Press Room, a speakeasy-style cocktail bar with a rotating theme (when I was there, it was Alice in Wonderland).
If your visit overlaps with a Saturday between May and October, stroll through the Greenville Saturday Market on Main Street. It’s absolutely massive and, in addition to fresh veggies, herbs and cut flowers, it features some unique items — like ostrich jerky and sweet potato pie. Grab a flight at one of Greenville’s downtown craft breweries, like Fireforge Crafted Beer or Yee-Haw Brewing Co., which are, conveniently, just a few blocks apart.
And if you’re interested in a more in-depth exploration of the Greenville food scene, I highly recommend booking a tour with local foodie and historian John Nolan. You can also embark on a self-guided “mayo tour” of restaurants that use Greenville-founded Duke’s Mayo.
Other spots to bookmark: Coral Greenville (upscale seafood), Aryana Afghan Cuisine (authentic Afghan and vegan food), Jianna (Italian fare and oysters), Soby’s (upscale Southern cuisine), Southern Pressed Juicery (smoothies and acai bowls) and Rise Bakery (artisan pastries and sourdough).
Where to stay
The Reedy River Falls and Liberty Bridge are really the crown jewels of modern Greenville, in my opinion. As such, I recommend basing yourself at the Grand Bohemian Lodge Greenville, a moody new hotel built into a hillside right next to these landmarks.
Inspired by the kind of classic, woodsy architecture you might find at a national park, the building is clad in cedar shingles — some a rich brown, others an olive green — and features regionally sourced stones around the base. Cozy aesthetics aside, it’s also ideally located for a car-free trip to Greenville: You can walk to the downtown core in less than 5 minutes.
Unlike most other hotels, where the top floors offer the best views, the Grand Bohemian Lodge’s most sought-after rooms are on the ground floor, where travelers can gaze out directly at the Reedy River. Surrounded by dense foliage, the hotel also has serious treehouse vibes — so much so that the owners named the on-site restaurant Between the Trees. There’s also a sultry cocktail bar called Spirit & Bower, and both concepts have expansive patios overlooking the river.
Inside, a massive stone fireplace anchors the lobby. Hand-selected works of art from owner Richard Kessler’s personal collection dot the walls (ask at the front desk about taking the self-guided art tour), and an on-site gallery spotlights new and emerging local artists. You’ll find cozy little nooks and seating areas everywhere — including some on an outdoor terrace with views of the water below.
