It’s hard to go wrong with beef, cheese and bread.
Cheeseburgers? Magnificent. Cheesesteaks? Sumptuous. But a third member of this holy trinity only recently gained notice in Denver and across the country: New York City’s chopped cheese.
Do not be fooled: Though it typically comes on a hero or hoagie roll, the chopped cheese sandwich is not a Philly cheesesteak. While the two may be similar, chop-cheese (as it’s also known for short) boasts a rich history of its own.
According to a New York Times deep-dive on the chop-cheese, the uniquely satisfying sandwich was born in a Harlem bodega called Hajji’s. Legend has it that a Hajji’s cook named Carlos Soto created the first one at some point during this 20 years there, though the precise when and why has been lost to history.
After that, the affordable, portable sandwich caught on, popping up at bodegas throughout Harlem and the Bronx. Its appeal is obvious: Ground beef and velvety cheese chopped together on a grill, then prettied up with onion, ketchup, mayo, lettuce and tomato. Pile it on a bun — boom, done. Chow on it while you walk to the subway.
Then, a turning point: In 2014, Anthony Bourdain briefly discussed the chopped cheese on an episode of his TV show, “Parts Unknown,” about the Bronx.
A group of Bronx teens snacked on chopped cheeses while chatting with Bourdain about life in the borough. Bourdain, a man well-acquainted with New York City’s foodways, seemed unfamiliar with the sandwich, but charmed.As with many things Bourdain-related, eager foodies latched on to this new-to-them cultural artifact. Interest in the bodega staple surged throughout the city, and in the ensuing years it traveled with roving New Yorkers.
Which is how Brian Murphy brought his vision of chopped cheese to Denver.
Murphy, a born-and-raised New Yorker transplanted to Denver, opened Big Apple Bodega, at 2231 S. Broadway, in May. It’s a brick-and-mortar version of his food truck, featuring a full menu of chop-cheese. Each sandwich represents a little piece of New York, in name and in signature flavors.
For the classic chopped cheese experience, Murphy offers “The Sinatra.” All of the required elements are in place: melted American cheese expertly incorporated with heavily seasoned ground beef and grilled onions, plus ketchup, mayo, lettuce and tomato on a soft yet sturdy roll.
From there, the menu goes on a tour of the region, from Far Rockaway (fajita beef, peppers, avocado ranch) to the Hudson (Cajun seasonings, pepper Jack, onion strings and chipotle ranch).
Murphy, 46, acknowledges that most of his offerings are a departure from the original bodega chopped cheese. But he says the New Yorkers who’ve stopped by are all for it.
“New Yorkers love it,” said Murphy. “They want to eat their way through the menu.”
Other Denver chefs are putting their own spin on the chopped cheese, too.
At the Avanti food hall, 3200 Pecos St., in Denver, the “Vietnamese-ish” fusion spot Pho King Rapidos dishes up a “chopped cheese crunchy roll,” which consists of seasoned ground beef, cheese and onion in an egg roll, served with tomato and lettuce leaves for Vietnamese-style wrapping. Ketchup and mayo comes on the side as a dip.
Split Lip, which is located inside Number 38, a Denver bar and gathering area at 3560 Chestnut Place, makes a point of celebrating regional specialties on its menu (think Nashville-style hot chicken and Oklahoma onion burgers). The chopped cheese is one of several sandwiches that get a little twist on their original form.Made with bison and green chiles, it is very Colorado.
“I had never heard of [chopped cheese], but we came across this cult-following sandwich from Harlem and the Bronx,” said Split Lip’s owner, Adam Branz.
“Our original goal was to pay respect and homage to these regional dishes, so it felt a little dishonest to take them directly as they were,” he said. “Our version was born during the National Western Stock Show — we were trying to pull some of the cowboys in during that time.”
It can’t have been difficult. The funky allure of the chopped cheese is powerful — a bit like New York City itself.
Looking for more places that serve chopped cheese sandwiches locally? Try these:
Duke’s Good Sandwiches, 2748 Welton St., Denver: White American cheese, pepperoncini and raw onion
Tessa Delicatessen, 5724 E. Colfax Ave., Denver: Peppers, onions, mayo
The Grateful Gnome, 4369 Stuart Street, Denver: Closer to classic-style
Bodega, 2651 W. 38th Ave., Denver: A breakfast version with sausage, weekends only
Originally Published: July 17, 2024 at 6:00 a.m.
